Election Day in Burma

Election day in Mae Sot seems pretty quiet.  This morning I biked to the border (about 5km away from town), which has been officially closed for months leading up to this election.  There was slightly more police presence there, a few more foreign journalists, but all in all a normal day - the market carrying on, people walking along the Thai side of the river, Burmese people washing clothes and doing daily chores along the other.  I walked past a news crew from Al Jeezera who were filming the short clip linked below.  Most people I"ve asked about the election are fairly sceptical that any real change will result.  People joke grimly that the military leaders are simply changing into government uniforms and will carry on with the status quo.  The election is already being called a "sham" by many external sources, and with the biggest pro-democracy opposition party boycotting the election, and international monitoring agencies denied access to the process, it's easy to understand why there is such scepticism.

Short clip from Al Jeezera, shot in Mae Sot this morning:
http://english.aljazeera.net/video/asia-pacific/2010/11/201011620521237982.html
And a good article on the election:
http://english.aljazeera.net/news/asia-pacific/2010/11/20101170373336867.html

For me, it's a lazy Sunday as I gear up for my last week at the clinic.  People ask how I'm feeling about leaving Mae Sot and, having known all along that I'm only here for 6 weeks, I feel ready.  That said, I know I could work here for much longer, and delve into issues and relationships and learning that I've not been able to access as a transient volunteer.  With so many international volunteers coming and going from this place, I've heard that it takes a minimum of 6 months before people really start to trust you and speak honestly with you about the situation here.  I've had a glimpse, and have learned a lot, but I know I've only touched the surface.
Yesterday, two friends and I visited "Mae La" refugee camp, which is home to 55 000 refugees.  Most have travelled illegally from Burma in order to escape violence and displacement, and have settled in this camp where they receive basic food rations and have access to health and education services, which are provided by international NGOs.  I was told that about half of the people there have official refugee status, granted by the UN, which allows them to apply for resettlement in "third countries" such as Canada or the US.  When I asked about those without refugee status, I was told that the UN has temporarily stopped issuing status cards, because every time they do, there is an influx of new refugees across the border - so the problem is not being solved.  Though the refugee camps are supposed to be temporary, many people have lived there for 15 years or more.  The camp certainly had a permanent feel.  I was reminded of other hill tribe villages I've visited - bamboo homes on stilts, an endless network of dirt paths, animals, small gardens, children playing.  One major difference though is that here, people are not permitted to leave the camp, or to work for money (though many do illegally), under threat of deportation.
The three of us western women were taken around the camp by a friendly Karen man, who put aside whatever else he had planned for the day, to talk to us about life in the camp.  We visited the school, had some food with one family, and met a bunch of the youth having a fundraiser for their class, complete with food, carnival games and a band playing rock music.  It was quite a day.
The "cool season" has started, and with the change in weather, many people including me have picked up head colds.  But, if this is the only microbe I've picked up during my time here, I consider myself lucky!  I hope you're all well and happy.
With love, Laura

Mae La Refugee camp