Sunday, November 14, 2010

A full last week in Mae Sot

Well, I gather that the situation along the Burmese border following the elections has made international news.  The morning of November 8th, fighting broke out in Myawaddy between the SPDC (military government) and on faction of the Karen army who had been previously allied with the SPDC.  The fallout was that many civilians were caught in the crossfire, and over 15 000 - 20 000 fled across the Moei river into Mae Sot. 
The refugees were temporarily held at an army base near the Mae Tao Clinic, and many international and Thai NGOs stepped in to provide the basics - shelter, water, sanitation, food.  At the Mae Tao clinic, we were all waiting for an influx of people seeking care, but it remained strangely quiet there.  Myself and a few others went to the temporary camp, to see if there were ways we could assist.  When we asked what was most needed, the reply was "organization".  Though it was quite impressive, the response that occured within 24 hours of the refugees arriving, there was also quite a lack of obvious coordination - latrines hadn't been set up and people were having to use the bushes, the fair distribution of food and water was a challenge, and it was clear that major public health concerns like dehydration and heat-illness could evolve quickly with so many people in such a confined space.  For better or worse, after two days, the Thai government exerted some strong diplomatic pressure, and the fighting settled down in Myawaddy, and people were forced to return home.  I have heard that the fighting continues along the border, with many people still seeking refuge in Thailand and that many people have returned to Myawaddy to find that their homes have been burned, and their families separated. So, it seems that the post-election unrest is far from over.
From a personal point of view, it was quite frustrating to be able to offer so little help to the situation.  Without language, many foreigners found themselves quite useless, though some began fundraising efforts.  It seemed that there were resources available, and people willing to help in any way they could, but the lack of organization in an emergency situation was the limiting factor.  I have a new appreciation for the field of disaster management!  It was also eye-opening to be at the temporary camp and to see children playing, and people smiling and chatting with oneanother - none of the mass hysteria that I would expect from people fleeing a war zone.  The calmness was unsettling and made me wonder what many Burmese peoples lives must be like that this appeared to be an almost "normal" state of affairs.

Mae Sot and the Mae Tao clinic are back to their regular states - though with quite a bit of excitement and attention to Aung San Suu Kyi's release yesterday!  News is pending...
There have been some difficult goodbyes at the clinic, and a raucous goodbye party that Ale and organized as a thank you to the Inpatient Department.  I'm feeling a lot, though I can't see clearly enough through the jumble of emotions to articulate them.  I am looking forward to a change of scenery, and some time to reflect and slow down with myself.  Tomorrow morning I hop on a bus to the Chiang Mai area, where I will have two weeks to visit some friends, and return to Muvikhi, the Karen village where I lived five years ago!
The journey continues...

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Election Day in Burma

Election day in Mae Sot seems pretty quiet.  This morning I biked to the border (about 5km away from town), which has been officially closed for months leading up to this election.  There was slightly more police presence there, a few more foreign journalists, but all in all a normal day - the market carrying on, people walking along the Thai side of the river, Burmese people washing clothes and doing daily chores along the other.  I walked past a news crew from Al Jeezera who were filming the short clip linked below.  Most people I"ve asked about the election are fairly sceptical that any real change will result.  People joke grimly that the military leaders are simply changing into government uniforms and will carry on with the status quo.  The election is already being called a "sham" by many external sources, and with the biggest pro-democracy opposition party boycotting the election, and international monitoring agencies denied access to the process, it's easy to understand why there is such scepticism.

Short clip from Al Jeezera, shot in Mae Sot this morning:
http://english.aljazeera.net/video/asia-pacific/2010/11/201011620521237982.html
And a good article on the election:
http://english.aljazeera.net/news/asia-pacific/2010/11/20101170373336867.html

For me, it's a lazy Sunday as I gear up for my last week at the clinic.  People ask how I'm feeling about leaving Mae Sot and, having known all along that I'm only here for 6 weeks, I feel ready.  That said, I know I could work here for much longer, and delve into issues and relationships and learning that I've not been able to access as a transient volunteer.  With so many international volunteers coming and going from this place, I've heard that it takes a minimum of 6 months before people really start to trust you and speak honestly with you about the situation here.  I've had a glimpse, and have learned a lot, but I know I've only touched the surface.
Yesterday, two friends and I visited "Mae La" refugee camp, which is home to 55 000 refugees.  Most have travelled illegally from Burma in order to escape violence and displacement, and have settled in this camp where they receive basic food rations and have access to health and education services, which are provided by international NGOs.  I was told that about half of the people there have official refugee status, granted by the UN, which allows them to apply for resettlement in "third countries" such as Canada or the US.  When I asked about those without refugee status, I was told that the UN has temporarily stopped issuing status cards, because every time they do, there is an influx of new refugees across the border - so the problem is not being solved.  Though the refugee camps are supposed to be temporary, many people have lived there for 15 years or more.  The camp certainly had a permanent feel.  I was reminded of other hill tribe villages I've visited - bamboo homes on stilts, an endless network of dirt paths, animals, small gardens, children playing.  One major difference though is that here, people are not permitted to leave the camp, or to work for money (though many do illegally), under threat of deportation.
The three of us western women were taken around the camp by a friendly Karen man, who put aside whatever else he had planned for the day, to talk to us about life in the camp.  We visited the school, had some food with one family, and met a bunch of the youth having a fundraiser for their class, complete with food, carnival games and a band playing rock music.  It was quite a day.
The "cool season" has started, and with the change in weather, many people including me have picked up head colds.  But, if this is the only microbe I've picked up during my time here, I consider myself lucky!  I hope you're all well and happy.
With love, Laura
Mae La Refugee camp